I made this video a while ago to show how to hair an Original with mohair, as until very recently they were all haired with synthetic stuff which wasn't to everybody's taste! I've also got a little bit near the end on how to style the hair so it stays in position and doesn't go all poofy and uncontrollable!
This technique can be used with any type of model horse that has a 'trench' for the hair to slot into, so you can rehair your HOTYs in exactly the same way.
I have a vintage Julip who needs a new tail, and possibly mane depending on how brave I am feeling! For some reason the video is giving me an error message, did you take it down or is it my computer acting weird?
You are only young once, but you can be young at heart forever.
Is that the smelly "fish" glue? Is it much visible when it's dry?
I hadn't read that you were wanting to use it on legs when I wrote that - I don't know, possibly. I never use glue on legs because I don't know how it will react with the latex over time - Copydex is latex-based anyway so I use that for manes and tails and it's fine but I wouldn't like to say for gluing something visible! It is the 'fishy'-smelling glue though, you're right.
Post by astudyinscarlet on Oct 21, 2015 12:33:15 GMT
If you're using copydex (for rehairing - please don't put it on their legs) make sure none of it's showing above the neckline, because it's latex based it often discolours really badly. Some of the older Julips actually haired at Julip have obvious browny glue marks in the 'roots' of the mane (I mean the comparatively older Annabel era ones, not just the real vintages). I have a real hatred of copydex since I used it in school to glue felt pieces onto a textiles project and after a few months it was ruined because the copydex discoloured so much.
Post by astudyinscarlet on Oct 21, 2015 19:08:13 GMT
Side effects of using superglue may include ending up with Julips glued to your hands.
I've not had a problem with it as long as I'm careful though. Just don't get it on the outside of the horse obviously. Liquid superglue though is terrible, it's far too runny and it'll go everywhere, so make sure it is gel and also don't use loads of it. It's so 'grabby' that you don't need a lot anyway. How it works with latex in the long run, who knows, but latex is always going to deteriorate to some extent over time anyway no matter what you do so I'm not overly concerned about most of the glues/paints, it's usually (unfortunately) the sunlight or heat or cold that seem to do far more damage than any materials I've put near them. I don't think (set) superglue can be particularly reactive though seeing as I've read that when it's fully cured it's safe to use in aquariums.
Also I've found another benefit of superglue is that even though it's generally a strong glue, because it dries very solid it's fairly brittle and therefore it's usually a lot easier to pull out the hair again if you need to rehair the horse again later for some reason (I've found removing hair from some old Julips is at best painful, at worst literally impossible).
Post by astudyinscarlet on Oct 21, 2015 23:23:49 GMT
I just realised I should probably clarify that I never use the tubes of gel superglue any more. I either get the regular bottles of it or Loctite make the squeezy bottles (power flex gel control) which I like because they don't waste any glue and it can't just spurt out by itself (whereas the metal tubes have an irritating tendency of either splitting and leaking everywhere or of getting air trapped in them which causes glue to carry on spurting out when you only squeezed it a tiny bit. I got really sick of half of it getting wasted that way). (The loctite ones are also good for other precision/fiddly work like making bridles etc.)